Fish Room Expansion

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1. Aquariums Reduce Stress
   Watching fish swim has been scientifically proven to lower blood pressure and reduce anxiety. It's like therapy in a tank!
    
2. Clownfish Can Change Gender
   In the wild (and in aquariums), clownfish are all born male—but the dominant one can change to female!
    
3. Corals Are Animals, Not Plants
   Though they look like colorful underwater plants, corals are actually living animals related to jellyfish and anemones.
    
4. Octopuses Are Escape Artists
   Octopuses are incredibly smart and flexible—they can squeeze through tiny openings and even unscrew lids!
    
5. Fish Have Personalities
   Some fish are curious, others are shy—and certain species can even recognize their owners.
    
6. The First Public Aquarium Opened in 1853
   It was built in the London Zoo and was called the "Fish House."
    
7. Aquariums Can Help Kids Learn Science
   From chemistry (water testing) to biology (life cycles), aquariums offer hands-on learning for all ages.
    
8. Sea Horses Are Unique Parents
   In seahorse species, it’s the males who carry and give birth to the babies!
    
9. Cleaner Fish Have a Job
   Cleaner wrasses and shrimp help keep other fish healthy by eating parasites off their scales.
    
10. Jellyfish Don’t Have Brains
    Despite lacking a brain or heart, jellyfish have survived for over 500 million years—longer than dinosaurs!

• Choose a Tank Size: A 40-gallon or larger tank is ideal for beginners—more water means more stability.
   
• Decide on a System Type: Options include Fish-Only (FO), Fish-Only with Live Rock (FOWLR), or a Reef Tank (with corals and invertebrates).
   
• Pick Your Location: Keep your tank away from direct sunlight and vents to avoid temperature swings.
   

• Aquarium (Glass or Acrylic)
   
• Stand or Cabinet
   
• Protein Skimmer (removes organic waste)
   
• Powerheads or Wave Makers (create water movement)
   
• Heater & Thermometer
   
• Lighting System (type depends on fish-only vs. reef)
   
• Sump ( We stay away from cannister filters)
   
• RO/DI Water System (for pure water)
   
• Test Kits (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, salinity)
   
• Salt Mix & Hydrometer/Refractometer
   

• Add live sand or aragonite substrate.
   
• Add live rock or dry rock for biological filtration.
   
• Fill the tank with pre-mixed saltwater (specific gravity: 1.023–1.025).
   
• Install all equipment (heaters, skimmers, powerheads, filters, etc.).
   
• Cycle the tank (see next step).
   

• Add a source of ammonia (pure ammonia, raw shrimp, or hardy fish).
   
• Monitor ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates over 4–6 weeks.
   
• The tank is fully cycled when:
   
  • Ammonia = 0
     
  • Nitrite = 0
     
  • Nitrate = low (under 40 ppm)
     

• Begin with hardy fish or clean-up crew (snails, hermits).
   
• Introduce new animals one at a time, spaced out over weeks.
   
• Quarantine all new fish for 2–4 weeks to prevent disease.
   
• Acclimate new arrivals with a drip acclimation method.
   

• Weekly water tests (especially in the beginning)
   
• 10–20% water change every 1–2 weeks
   
• Clean protein skimmer, replace filter media as needed
   
• Scrape algae from glass and clean substrate
   
• Check salinity, temperature, and equipment regularly
  
   

• Be patient—rushing cycling or stocking leads to problems.
   
• Research compatibility before adding new livestock.
   
• Stability is key—avoid sudden changes in salinity, temperature, or chemistry.

50–150 for softies

150–250 for LPS

250–350+ for SPS

Temperature76–78°F (24.5–25.5°C)Keep stable—avoid fluctuations over 2°F per day

Salinity / SG1.024–1.026 (33–35 ppt) Use a refractometer for accuracy 

pH8.1–8.4Test in evening for most accurate reading

Alkalinity (dKH)8–12 dKH (142–215 ppm)Aim for stability over chasing exact numbers

Calcium400–450 ppmEssential for coral and coralline algae growth

Magnesium1250–1350 ppmHelps stabilize calcium and alkalinity

Ammonia0 ppmToxic even at low levels—should always be undetectable

Nitrite0 ppmShould also remain undetectable after cycling

Nitrate1–10 ppm (SPS), up to 20 ppm (LPS/softies)Some nutrients are needed—avoid 0 ppm in established tanks

Phosphate0.01–0.05 ppmToo much causes algae; too little can starve corals

• Use auto top-off (ATO) to keep salinity stable.
   
• Perform regular water changes (10–20% biweekly).
   
• Dose calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium if you have corals (especially SPS/LPS).
   
• Test before and after changes to monitor trends, not just snapshots.